The first thing you notice when arriving in Jerusalem is the Orthodox Jews; there are a lot of them, comparing to Tel Aviv, and they are, obviously, very visible. As I was riding a bus to the Old City, a group of young orthodox jewish boys boarded the bus -- fully dressed like their elders. But as the bus ride went on, you'd realize that they're just teenage boys, making lots of noise and spoofs and nonsense. Well, obviously, I guess; but I have to admit that I first thought they would be more, uhm, dignified I guess. Full of religious feeling and observance and all that stuff.
Arriving at the Western Wall was somewhat of a shock because it seemed more like an theme park: large groups of people and buses and screams and noise. The Western Wall itself is somehwat weird: crowds of men gathered along it, while the women wait about 50metres or so at a fence in a distance. I didn't get why - I guess it has something to do with the Jewish faith - but women weren't allowed to access, or maybe they're only allowed to access on women only days?
The whole Old City continues being either crowded with people and vendors trying to lure you into their shops or being really deserted. I walked around and got totally disorientated and lost, but you can orient yourself pretty well once you've reached one of the outside walls. I also did - the part I liked most - a ramparts walk, going along the northern side. It was quite interesting to be able to peep into the backyards of Old Jerusalem; because, though I can't imagine how or why, people really actually live there. (I think I'd go nuts within a week.) It was also really pleasant getting away from the crowd.
I duly strawled along the Via Dolorosa, walking by the place were Jesus was flogged by Pontius Pilatus. The Via Dolorosa is maybe the weirdest of it all, though, with all the shops alongside it. When you think about it though, it must have been like that when Jesus walked there too.
All in all, I found the Old City of Jerusalem highly irritating. I don't think I liked it. I walked around the city centre a bit; but was already too tired and worn out to really enjoy it. Jerusalem itself is very different from Tel Aviv; very hilly.
I am not sure whether I'm going back to Jerusalem at all; I would, but only to see Yad Vashem.

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